How to make clothes for Barbie with your own hands. Sock craze, or MK how I sew dolls from socks Clothes for Barbie from socks

Hello, dear guest and doll lover . Clothes for a doll made from socks caught my attention lately as I bought several pairs just for my beauties. If you want to quickly sew a new beautiful doll outfit, sew the same one with your own hands.

Clothes for a doll made from socks can be very diverse - a dress, overalls, skirt, blouse, vest, underwear. Yes, perhaps, any item in a doll’s wardrobe can be sewn using ordinary socks as a basis. Such doll outfits are sewn quickly, they are bright, with a beautiful pattern, with ready-made elastic.

DRESS

The dress for a 30 cm tall doll is made with short sleeves, a stand-up collar, and no fastener. Socks of the same fabric complement the outfit, and a cord belt completes it.

TAILORING A DRESS

SOCKS


OVERALLS

The next doll's socks are a jumpsuit with short pants, I call this outfit a sandbox. It is convenient for small children to play in the sandbox, a very hygienic outfit.

The next outfit for the sock doll is a blouse for the sandpiper, which can be worn in cooler weather when returning from a walk.


The last piece of doll clothes made from socks is a hat. The cap is the remaining part with the toe.

Sweep the cut and the hat is ready.

The overalls, blouse and hat made an excellent summer costume for the doll.

Watch a short video:

Clothes for a sock doll can be varied. And sewing clothes is very simple.

Dear guest, did you like the doll clothes made from socks? Do you sew such outfits for your dolls? Tell us about it in the comments.

Cutting and sewing a raglan blouse for Barbie

So, now I’ll show you how you can fly with cutting and how great it is that I have different dolls :-))))

It was from this cutting that I wanted to show the raglan, but when I realized where I had made a mistake, I had to show completely different blouses first.
I have these socks in stock. Good, thick, almost 100% cotton teenage socks with a bright, beautiful pattern.


one has already been started, for the pupa because it was a set of socks, and the doll was small, there was also an elastic band there (pictured)
As always, we look at the length, taking into account the elastic band. Of course, here it is better to cut off the elastic and then sew it again onto the finished sweater.


I bevel the raglan up to the armpit, but I take the pattern into account, because I want to preserve such beautiful birds as much as possible.


make a second bevel

put it on a doll (I have a mannequin)
Everything seems to be fine, although of course it’s a teenage sock.

Let's see what we have with the elastic band at the neck. everything is just the right size.




Now you need to cut the sleeve. We estimate the length and width. I used the remainder that was left after cutting off the part with the birds. Just the right length. If we cut from a new sock, then simply mark the desired length (remember the first topic)


It will turn out something like this. The heel was pinned with a pin to straighten the fabric.



look at the bevel angle of the raglan at the sleeve, it should coincide with the raglan line at the “body”

Here we have one sleeve and the “body” is ready


Well, I cut the second sleeve from a new sock, trying to arrange it so that I have the most advantageous pieces left for another blouse.
If you are cutting from an ordinary adult women's sock, then of course everything will work out of one.


the heels will make great cuffs.
Here is our finished cutting. You should get a nice little blouse, truly Barbey colors :-))))


And now I will show and tell you where my mistake was!
Because the sock is thick, it is not as elastic as cheap synthetic socks. I lost sight of this point... as a result, when I fitted the future blouse onto a mannequin (think doll), I realized that after sewing the sleeves would completely fit the doll, like the whole blouse.
Then I decided to look, maybe it would be better to look at Baby (Little Star, I gave a link to the topic about her above).
We are not afraid of the photo, we do not wear a wig to try it on, so as not to fray it in vain.
The elastic band is already sewn on, so it’s better to see what will happen.

The sleeves are a little long, the “body” is also clingy. Then it dawned on me to estimate my cut for Lizka (Yoga Barbie)

Class! And even the color of the blouse matches the color of the lipstick
Well, then there will be a blouse for Lizaveta!

Now I will show you how you can sew cuffs onto a narrow sleeve so that it turns out beautifully and does not scratch your fingers with a needle.
To be honest, lately I have sewn so many things for MK that the index finger of my left hand was stuck in the trash!!!
So, first we sew the sleeve and overcast it as always.
Now we need an empty tube from a spool of thread, or something else that fits in size.
We sew the piece prepared for the strap into a ring, fold it in half and put it on a tube (see photo)


Now we put the sleeve on top, with the wrong side facing us. We combine all three layers and begin to sew the bar as usual, the needle will not go along the finger, but along the tube. We carefully check that all three layers are stitched.




and also sew the cut on the tube.

turn the sleeve inside out, insert the tube again and make a finishing stitch. and we get a beautiful sleeve with a perfect placket.



Now we sew the sleeve into the raglan armhole. I described how to do everything above, see the photo here



Now you need to sew on the top elastic band. You have to try it on first, I first tried it on Paolka (or rather on a mannequin), but Barbie’s shoulders are clearly narrower than Paola Reina’s and even than Baby Star’s.

It is clearly visible that the bar is wide, which means it needs to be reduced.

We cut off the excess and sew it, unfolding our strip to get a neat seam on the front side.




sew on the placket, first pin it evenly to the “body” of the blouse.

and we get such a beautiful sweater. The first photo is the side of the back, there is our seam on the strip. Look, it's almost invisible!




Well, on Lizaveta!

I liked how it turned out!!!

blouse or raglan dress made from a sock with a scalloped edge

For blouses or even dresses with a beautiful neckline, we need socks with an interesting pattern and scalloped elastic. You can also sew from socks with regular elastic, but with a pattern that is located very close to the upper edge of the elastic. This method is also suitable for short socks, which often come with a beautiful stripe of patterns.

I didn’t have any socks in my supplies that were the right size for sewing Paolka or Marie, so I made one for Barbie. But all the principles are the same, so we look and repeat.

And so, we have beautiful socks, which I couldn’t figure out which doll to sew and which blouse to sew.


Having tried on a sock on Barbie, I decided to sew not a blouse, but a dress. To do this, cut the sock clearly in half lengthwise to create the upper and lower parts of the sock (see photo)
Cut off the toe from the top



The top is perfect for a doll's knee length dress. Let's see what the bevel of the raglan line will be.





From the back (bottom) part of the sock we will cut the sleeves. Let's see how it turns out.

I decided to make the sleeve approximately to the elbow. With a different length of the shank of the sock, you can get an excellent long sleeve.
We cut off the heel, cut the raglan lines so that they completely coincide with the “body” raglan line, make a bevel of the sleeve (narrow it) if necessary. You can make a wide sleeve and sew on a cuff, gathering it up to create an interesting puffy sleeve


We sew as usual, but it’s better to sew the area where the elastic is in the way that I described earlier - first sew one layer, then the second, then we’ll get a neat top edge, and cuts and fringes from the seams won’t accidentally peek out.

It’s not very clear in the photo because of the shaggyness of the sock itself (from the drawing), but you can see that the seam is sewn and overcast, and then blind stitched.


Be sure to make a finishing stitch, pressing the seam to the “body” and not to the sleeve. In this way we sew all the lines of the raglan.

It didn’t turn out very straight when cutting off the toe, so I straightened it out before sewing the side seams. We sew the side seams in one step, immediately the sleeve and the “body”. Then we hem the sleeves and hem around. The hem of a blouse or dress should be hemmed more than the hem of a sleeve. Experience has proven that a narrow hem at the bottom of a dress or tunic will bend unattractively, showing the seam itself from the inside out. But we are smart, beautiful, needlewomen! We must do everything efficiently and beautifully!!!

If you are sewing a blouse, then you can choose an elastic band of a suitable color to decorate the bottom (in case there is some leftover from sewing other blouses) or when sewing a blouse you can cut it all the way down, you will have part of the foot left. From this part, cut out a strip and sew it on, as I described earlier.
In general, you have already learned a lot, let’s turn on your imagination and make it come true
And I got this dress for my Yoga Barbie.

Meet Lizaveta!

evening photo, in an unrenovated kitchen, in another place at this time there are completely dark photos...

Well, from the scraps from these socks, you can get a very beautiful blouse or even a bodysuit.
I'll show you the layout. Everything is clear from the photo.
But I won’t show you the finished blouse, because... I sewed a top of a completely different design, unrelated to raglan.
leftover socks

and layout for the blouse

Like most clothing models for sock dolls, the dress does not require preliminary paper patterns. Another advantage of “sock” clothing is that it is not necessary to process the bottom of the product, sleeves and neck. The best seam for sewing knitted parts is a loop stitch.

For the dress we will need an adult size sock.

This dress is made from the top of a sock. It is desirable that the elastic band on the lapel looks beautiful.

Cut off the required length of the dress by attaching the sock to the doll.

We outline the line of the sleeves. If you are planning to make a long-sleeved blouse for a Barbie doll, the sleeves will most likely be longer than the blouse itself. But the length of the clothing can be adjusted later.

We make cuts along the marked lines.

Sew the sides of the garment using a buttonhole stitch. Turn the dress right side out and try it on.

We fold the bottom of the dress and hem it with straight stitches from the inside out.

We bend the neckline of the dress halfway to the front side and hem it with straight stitches.

To complete the outfit, you can make a belt from thin cords (threads).

For such a belt you will need thin cords (threads) of two colors, approximately 0.5 m each, and a button with fairly large holes.

We fold one of the cords in half and make a loop, tying a knot, the button of your choice should go into this loop.

We insert the second cord into this loop and begin weaving in 4 threads. First, in the center we cross the cords of one color, then the second, again the first, etc.

When the belt reaches the desired length, thread one end of the cord through the holes of the button.

Tie all the cords together in one knot.

You can make knots at the ends of the cords, you can hang beads, or simply singe the ends so that the threads do not unravel. The last method is only suitable for synthetic cords.

You can crochet the belt or use a thicker lace, decorating the ends of the belt with tassels, beads, and fur balls. A leather strap will also go with the dress.

Clothes for dolls. Part 1

Tights for dolls

Let's take golf. measure the length of our doll’s foot and cut off the excess

measure the length of the leg and cut the golf in half to the desired height

fold our “foot” in half and round the corners to make the look more aesthetically pleasing

We do the same with the heel - it should turn out something like this


then we sew it all together. If someone has a modern miracle sewing machine with many functions, then by machine, but I sew by hand. The wrong side looks something like this



seam on the side like this

The result is like this

Overalls, pattern

Jacket made from sock

You will need: a pair of socks, a detachable zipper, thread and needle and glue.

Take the socks, cut off the top part and cut it as follows.

We get two sleeves and one large front-back piece.
We take a larger piece, bend the edges and sew on a zipper.

You most likely won’t get a small zipper, so we cut off all the excess, take glue and drop a few drops onto the ends of the zipper, otherwise the dog will come off.

We take scissors and make cuts (armholes) on the front-back piece, dividing it into front and back. Valuable advice from Bitter Apple
If you make such a jacket for a girl “with a bust,” then it is better to move the slits (armholes) to the back, so that the back is narrower than the front, and not equally (it is better to attach the part to the doll in advance and see where to make the armholes). So the clothes will fit better

The length of the cuts is equal to the width of the sleeve.
We sew together the shoulder seams and sleeves, we get something like this:

We sew in the sleeves.


At this stage you can basically finish. Sew around the neck and you're done.
For the hood, take the remaining part of the sock and cut it as follows:

bend along the edge

and sew it to the neck.

A hood made from the “sock” of a sock is not a very successful thing. in this place the fabric is denser, and it lies crookedly. so you can try to cut it out from the “middle” - cut out two pieces and sew them in half.

Pants for a doll

I often sew toys in trousers, this pattern is also suitable for pantaloons, “one pattern for all” does not suit me, so I make a separate pattern for each toy and sew according to it, which I advise you to do too. So we need sizes toys, in this case I have a donkey, using its dimensions I will show the construction of the pattern and sewing.
Pants length BE(I measure from the waist to the “floor”) -20 cm + 2 cm for the hem = 22 cm
Waist width AB(we measure where the waist is supposed to be) - I have 24:4 = 6 + 1 cm (for a loose fit and seam allowance) = 7 cm
Hip width SD(measured at the most protruding places - for me 29:4 = 7.2 (rounded up) = 8 + 1 (for a loose fit and seam allowance) = 9cm.
Landing length HP(we place the toy on the fifth point and measure from the waist to the “floor”) - I have 8 cm + 1 cm for the hem of the top of the trousers. = 9 cm

Now we take a sheet of paper (I have A4 format) and fold its length in half, start drawing from the fold, and then cut out the result, this is what I got

The next step is to fold the bottom of the trousers, I use adhesive web, I use it to glue the hem, it makes it neat and convenient, and then I sew it with a double stitch.

We sew the trouser legs, turn them inside out and iron them, and try them on for a toy.

This is what they look like after everything described above, rear view.

We put it on the toy and sew the unsewn part in place with a blind stitch. The result should be like this

You can sew on a belt, straps and put on a belt, but I have very thick, thick jeans and it would look sloppy, I also sew a pocket on the side, also original. In general, have fun.

Sweater for a doll or bunny

The advantage of this method is that it is very easy and quick to sew, you do not need precise measurements, and the result is impressive. The whole process takes about half an hour! You need to sew the sweater before you sew on the doll’s arms!

For this doll I needed a sweater in white and red colors. I chose this pair.

We cut off the part we need.

From one sock we will make the front and back of the sweater, and from the other - the sleeves.
Of course, we could have left it this way, but this drawing does not suit the image of the doll. Therefore, we will close the flower with a heart. We cut out a heart from red fabric (mine is fleece) and reinforce it with adhesive interlining or sickle tape.

We attach the heart to the front with a zigzag seam, having previously basted or chipped it with the sock (do not grab the back of the future sweater!). Fold and zigzag the bottom of the sweater.
Now you can try it on:

Let's do the sleeves. We turn the second cut sock inside out, attach the doll’s hands and trace the outline with chalk or pencil. Sew on a machine without cutting out parts. Please note that knitwear stretches very well, so the stitching must be laid slightly away from the intended lineinside. Just in case, you can try it on right away (no need to turn it inside out):

I found that the sleeves were a little long. And there were black stripes at the top, which seemed ugly to me. I added another line, slightly shortening the sleeves at the top. Tried it on - good! Now you can cut, turn and try on!

The last stage: we sew the arms in the sleeves to the doll’s body. I sew on two arms at once, piercing the body right through, and the arms only from the inside. We admire the result:

Summer blouse

To work you will need:
- fabric (preferably one that does not fray)
- ribbon or cord for ties

Operating procedure:

  1. Cut two pieces from the fabric, adding 0.5 cm to each cut for the seam and hem if the fabric is fraying. If the fabric does not fray, then you only need to add along the ABC corner.
  2. Place the pieces right side to right side and sew along the ABC side. Repeat the same on the other side.
  3. If the fabric is fraying, treat all cuts.
  4. Sew ties on the shoulders and ends of the sleeves. Lightly melt the ends of the ribbon so that they do not fray.

Dress "Strawberries and cream"

To work you will need:
- fabric (not necessarily in pink tones - you’ll just have to come up with a different name for a dress of a different color);
- linen elastic;
- sewing or lace on the collar;
- hook-and-eye clasp;
- decorative buttons for decoration (but this is no longer necessary - see below)

Construction of the pattern:

Part 1 is a rectangle, the width of which is equal to the width of the chest, and the length is the distance from the base of the neck to the bottom of the dress

Detail 2 - a rectangle of arbitrary width (but not less than 1 waist circumference) and length from the waist (or from the armpits - if the waistline is high) to the bottom of the dress.

Operating procedure:

  1. Cut out one part at a time, adding 0.5 cm on all sides to the seam on part 1, and on top of part 2 add 1.5-2 cm to the hem (the elastic will be inserted there), and 0.5 on the other sides cm on the seam.
  2. Fold the top of part 2 and stitch at a distance of approximately 1 cm from the fold. Insert the elastic band inside and secure it on both sides. (On the presented model, it was done a little differently: part 2 consists of 2 parts, each of which is assembled on top and processed with a roller, with a Velcro fastener at the back. But it’s easier to do it with an elastic band).
  3. Place pieces 1 and 2 right side to right, aligning the bottom edges of the pieces. Sew along the BN line. Repeat the same on the second side.
  4. Fold the bottom of the dress and secure the hem. If the fabric does not fray, this is not necessary. By the way, the hem can not only be secured with a seam, but also with the help of a “web” - something like double-sided interlining, put it inside the fold and iron it.
  5. Fold the sides of part 1 above the skirt and secure the hem.
  6. Now we’re making a collar: cut out of the fabric on the bias (i.e., diagonally relative to the weave of the threads) a rectangle, the length of which is equal to the girth of the neck plus 1 cm for the hem, and the width is 2-2.5 cm. You can simply take a piece of ready-made bias tape of the desired size length. Then take a piece of sewing or lace 1.5-2 times longer than the circumference of the neck and gather it along the upper cut. Then place the sewing and bias tape together, right side to right side, and place them on the right side of piece 1, on the top edge, lining up the middles. Sew along the top edge (it is better to sew from the middle or before sewing, fasten the parts in the middle with a couple of stitches so that they do not move). After this, bend the bias tape so that the top edges of the sewing and part 1 are inside the fold and sew along the junction of the tape and the sewing, bending the remaining side edges of the tape inward.
  7. Sew on a hook fastener, decorate the part with 1 decorative buttons, applique or embroidery if it is made of a plain fabric.

Are your socks torn, pills appearing on them, or are they a size smaller after washing? You can use regular socks to make socks for a doll! We replenish the toy wardrobe with new items from old clothes.

On the website we tell you how to sew socks for a doll from ordinary socks without a pattern. We sew by hand. As a model, an ordinary standard small baby doll. Heel length is about 5 cm, width is about 3 cm.

Materials and tools

  • knitted socks with a pattern;
  • needle and thread;
  • scissors;

Progress

  1. In this example, the socks are pink with a white pattern. Cut off a small part from the sock, from the elastic side. The shorter we cut it, the shorter the socks for the little one will be. If you step back longer, you will get knee socks.

Fold the fabric in half and cut it. It looks like two rectangles.

At the bottom of the product we round the ends a little so that the socks look more natural.

Turn the product over to the other side. We stitch it. It is better to use a small needle to make the seam small and neat. Small needles are commonly used for bead crafts.

Turn the socks inside out. We put it on the baby.

We take socks of a different color, blue-blue with a pattern. We do everything as described in the master class above and we get another pair of socks. Now the little one has 2 pairs of them.

Old socks are clothes for a baby or doll. These socks are suitable for dolls from the USSR era, Paola Reina, Gots, porcelain, Vesna brand, 30 cm dolls.

If you use socks with a pattern, they will turn out more elegant. You can make a hat or panties from the second sock to match the product. You can read about this in other master classes in the “crafts” section.